In 1897, Rosalía Suárez discovered the best ice-cream had no cream at all. Her shop has been a sensation ever since. Now run by her grandson, it serves helados de paila, sorbets made from pure tropical fruit juices (guanábana, naranjilla, maracuyá) and egg whites, stirred with a wooden spoon in a copper bowl (paila), cooled on a bed of straw.
A dueling ice-cream shop with the very same name run by another Suárez descendant is directly across the street. This one is called 'Los Legitimos' for a reason – more distant cousins have opened two other 'Bermejita' shops down the block, discreetly using the family name, too.