Day One

  • Prague Castle & Hradčany

Wander through the courtyards of Prague Castle before the main sights open, then spend the morning visiting St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace and the Lobkowicz Palace; try and time things to catch the changing of the guard at noon.

Descend from the castle to Malá Strana along Nerudova street, and stop to admire the baroque beauty of St Nicholas Church. From here, head to the Wallenstein Garden for some peace and quiet, then exit on the far side and follow the backstreets south to Kampa. If it's sunny, hang out in the park, and grab a drink at Mlýnská Kavárna, or pay a visit to the Kampa Museum. As day fades, stroll across Charles Bridge in the evening light.

  • Dinner Augustine is a sophisticated place for a special meal.
  • Malá Strana

Malá Strana is full of buzzy bars. Try U Malého Glena, a classic Prague bar and jazz club, with live music every night.

Day Two

  • Staré Město

Start the day in the Old Town Square; after watching the Astronomical Clock do its thing, climb to the top of the Old Town Hall Tower for a great view of the square. Head along Celetná to the Municipal House and have a coffee while you admire the art-nouveau decor. Buy a ticket for a concert; if you have time before lunch, take a guided tour.

  • Lunch Try Lokál for an authentically Czech lunch and great beer.
  • Staré Město

Dedicate the afternoon to visiting the half-dozen monuments that comprise the Prague Jewish Museum; if you don't have the time or energy for all of them, concentrate on the Old-New Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Spanish Synagogue.

  • Dinner Kalina serves gourmet French cuisine cooked with fresh Czech produce.
  • Staré Město

Attend a concert in the Municipal House's Smetana Hall or the Klementinum's Chapel of Mirrors, or spend a night at the opera at the Estates Theatre. Afterwards, explore Old Town cocktail joints such as Hemingway Bar and Čili Bar.

Day Three

  • Nové Město

Explore the passages and arcades around Wenceslas Square, especially the Lucerna Palace with David Černý's intriguing upside-down horse sculpture, and discover the hidden gem that is the Franciscan Garden. Then, if time and inclination allow, take in the historical and artistic treasures of the National Museum, the Prague City Museum and the Mucha Museum.

  • Lunch The tapas at Room make for a superb lunch.
  • Smíchov & Vyšehrad

In the afternoon, take a metro ride out to Vyšehrad and explore Prague's other castle, the Vyšehrad Citadel, with its gorgeous views along the Vltava. Don't miss the impressive tombs of composers Dvořák and Smetana and other famous Czechs in the Vyšehrad Cemetery. Walk back to the city centre along the embankment.

  • Dinner Head to Sansho for a memorable meal (book in advance).
  • Nové Město

The New Town is home to the city's most prestigious classical-music venues – try to catch a performance at the National Theatre (ballet), the Prague State Opera or the Dvořák Museum (concerts of Dvořák's music).

Day Four

  • Holešovice

Time to escape the city for a while: take a boat trip along the Vltava River to the rural suburb of Troja (or hire a bike and ride there) and visit the suburban delights of Prague Zoo and Troja Chateau. Walk back into the city centre through Stromovka park.

You could spend an entire afternoon admiring modern art in the Veletržní Palác, but if the outdoor bug has bitten keep walking (or take a tram) to Letná Gardens for some afternoon drinking at Letná Beer Garden, the city's premier open-air chill-out spot, with glorious views along the Vltava River.

  • Dinner Sasazu captures the vibe of this up-and-coming area.
  • Žižkov & Karlín

Take the metro across town to Jiřího z Poděbrad station, and go up the TV Tower for a nighttime city panorama (open until midnight). From here, the legendary bars of Žižkov await – Bukowski's atmospheric cocktail dive is just two blocks downhill.