Like many of the drinking dens that are popular among expats, Bukowski’s is more a cocktail dive than a cocktail bar. Named after hard-drinking American writer Charles Bukowski, it cultivates a dark and slightly debauched atmosphere – the decor is self-consciously ‘interesting’ (when you can see it through the smoke-befogged candle­light) – but it peddles quality cocktails and cigars, and has friendly bartenders and cool tunes.