Žižkov is famous for having more pubs per head of population than any other city district in Europe, and – depending on your tastes – offers the most authentic or the most terrifying pub-crawling experience in Prague. Be prepared for smoke, sticky floors, wall-to-wall noise and some heroically drunk companions.
Up-and-coming Karlín has a great choice of trad pubs, trendy wine bars and artisanal coffee shops.
Pivovar U Bulovky
Opened in 2004 during Prague's first wave of microbreweries, Pivovar U Bulovky is a genuine neighbourhood bar, a homely wood-panelled place with quirky metalwork, much of it home-built by the owner-brewer, František Richter. The delicious house ležák (lager; 32Kč for 0.5L) is a yeast beer, cloudy in appearance, and crisp, citrusy and refreshing in flavour. The bar is set in a nondescript eastern suburb, but it is well worth the tram trip (from Náměstí Republiky or Florenc, take tram 3 or 24 to Bulovka). Just don’t expect the staff to speak much English!