While urban bus services exist in Nicosia, Lemesos, Larnaka, Pafos and Famagusta, about the only places where they are of any practical use are Larnaka and Pafos (to get to and from the airport) and Lemesos, where frequent local buses trundle between the tourist area and old harbour, and where there are also regular services to Kourion and Kolossi from the local bus station; and Ayia Napa, where there are regular services to Paralimni and Protaras.
In the South, taxis are extensive and available on a 24-hour basis; they can either be hailed from the street or a taxi rank, or booked over the phone. Taxis are generally modern, air-conditioned vehicles, usually comfortable Mercedes, and, apart from outside major centres, equipped with meters that the drivers are obliged to use.
'Taxi sharing', which is common in Greek cities such as Athens, is not permitted in Cyprus. Taxi drivers are normally courteous and helpful.
In the North, taxis do not sport meters, so agree on the fare with the driver beforehand. As a rough guide, expect to pay around 10TL to 15TL for a ride around any of the towns. A taxi ride from North Nicosia to Kyrenia will cost between 80TL and 100TL, and from North Nicosia to Famagusta, 120TL to 150TL.
Taking up to eight people, service taxis are a useful transport option between major cities in the South.
Travel & Express (www.travelexpress.com.cy) is run by an amalgamation of private companies with one national phone number. The individual offices can be contacted directly.
The North has dolmuşes (minibuses) between North Nicosia and the main towns, and Kyrenia and the main towns (fares between 5TL and 11TL, depending on the route). It also has service taxis (kombos) between North Nicosia and Kyrenia and Famagusta.
Travelling between the Republic and Northern Cyprus is easy nowadays, since the restrictions on crossing through passport control have been eased; however, you are only allowed to cross at designated checkpoints. Don't forget your passport.
Crossing freely between the North and the South has become pretty straightforward since the easing of restrictions in 2003. It is now possible to cross at seven points on the island and there are ongoing negotiations between the two sides about opening more. Crossings at Ledra Palace Hotel and Ledra St are for pedestrians only, while crossings at Agios Dometios, Pergamos, Agios Nikolaos, Limnitis-Yeşilirmak and Zodhia are for vehicles. If you don’t have your own transport, a taxi will take you across and then to anywhere you want to go.
EU citizens are allowed to cross into the Republic if their point of entry into the country is in the North. For all other nationalities, the situation is murkier. Officially, the Republic regards Ercan Airport and the ferry ports of Famagusta (Gazimağusa) and Kyrenia (Girne) as illegal points of entry and can refuse you entry. In practice, for US, Canadian, New Zealand, Japanese and Australian citizens this is rarely enforced, but we know of at least two occasions in 2017 when non-EU passport -holders were refused entry into the South.