Cypriot in Nicosia (Lefkosia)

This rough-and-ready canteen across from the bus station buzzes with locals tucking into cheap and cheerful souvlaki, grilled to perfection. A mixed grill with three skewers of meat, sheftalia (grilled sausages wrapped in caul fat), salad and pitta sets you back €7. Extra sides of griddled haloumi (hellim in Turkish) and olive-doused artichokes start from €1.

On a sunny day, seating spills out onto the pavement and everyone from builders on a lunch break to suited-up business people pull up a pew.