Driving: Wineries, Weaving & Abandoned Villages

  • Start Pafos
  • End Pafos
  • Length 86km; four to six hours

From Pafos, take the B7 north towards Polis. After around 9km, look for the sign for Aphrodite’s Rock Brewery where you can taste (and buy) craft beers. After a further 3km head towards Fyti on the signposted E703; this pretty country road winds between vineyards and orchards. Pass through Polemi and Psathi, then take the signposted left turn towards Fyti. Park by the church, stop at the Phiti Pefkos Taverna for a drink or snack, and duck into the Folk Art Museum before leaving on the F725 towards Pano Panagia via Kritou Marottous and Asprogia. The scenery en route is lovely, with vineyards, citrus groves and distant mountains.

Watch for the sign for the Vouni Panayia Winery, a sophisticated stop for a wine tasting; the Barba Yiannis dry red comes particularly recommended. Continue on to Pano Panagia, the birthplace of Archbishop Makarios; have a quick nose around his childhood house, a typical peasants’ home with just two rooms.

Head south out of town on the F622, stopping at the well-signposted Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery for a simple cafe lunch on the terrace, accompanied by beautiful countryside views. Around 4km from here is another excellent winery, Kolios Vineyards, which makes a highly regarded shiraz. Follow signs to the E702 and Choulou. After around 3km you will pass through an abandoned village, where a 1969 earthquake forced the vast majority of villagers to relocate; it is just starting to show some signs of life again.

In Choulou have a look at the simple whitewashed mosque (this was a Turkish village before 1974) and enjoy a drink across the way at the traditional Antoyaneta coffee shop, with its shaded terrace. Make the last stop on your tour at the village of Lemona, home to micro-winery Tsangarides Winery, which produces organic wines and recently won a silver medal for its shiraz rosé at the annual Cyprus Wine Competition. Continue back to Pafos on the B7, via Letmyvou and Tsada.