Drift a few blocks from the centro histórico and crowds disperse without any measurable drop in food quality. Music is the theme in this interesting nook, never short of a quintet or passing troubadour. From the menu, the tostones (plantain pan-fried in oil) stuffed with minced crab linger longest in the memory.
There's also ropa vieja (shredded lamb in this case) and natural juices. Write your comments on the door (literally) on the way out.