Bravo to the spectacular cliffside location sporting huge sea views. Think classics: roast chicken and pork are nicely presented. A busload of European/North American 50-somethings can really slow down service, so time your visit. Not that this put off Paul McCartney, who ate here during a whistle-stop 2000 visit (his plate is proudly mounted on the wall).

According to the waiters, the world's most famous vegetarian made do with an omelet. For meat-eaters, the set comida criolla (Creole food) lunch is a better bet, a filling spread with soup, main, a small dessert and one drink. Take bus 212 to Ciudamar and walk the last 20 minutes, or take a taxi and combine it with a fort visit.