A hotel of untapped potential, Las Yagrumas, 3km north of San Antonio de los Baños, overlooks the picturesque but polluted Río Ariguanabo. Its 120 rooms with balcony and terrace (some river facing) are popular with peso-paying Cubans as opposed to foreign tourists, but many fixtures are falling apart. Sports facilities are better; there's table tennis and a gigantic pool (nonguests pay CUC$6).
Boat trips take off on the nearby river. A motor boat will take you on an 8km spin for CUC$3, while rowing boats go for CUC$1 an hour.