A campisimo (cheap rustic accommodations) 8km north of town on the Carretera a Viñales (off Rafael Morales). The 50 bungalows with hot showers sleep two (10 have air-con). Rooms are ailing but landscaping is lush. Besides an OK restaurant, Aguas Claras also offers horseback riding and day trips. You're a bit out of the way here, though, and insect repellent is essential.
It's accessible from Pinar del Río by bus several times daily.