A pianist plays romantically on a baby grand, chefs work artistically behind a glass partition in the kitchen, and a waiter carves Chateaubriand at your table. New York? Paris? No, the former culinary wasteland of Matanzas. A testament to how things are changing in Cuba is this charming new restaurant facing the bay in the city's Versalles quarter.
Starched table cloths play host to well-executed Cuban food backed up by pizza and pasta and – like all good restaurants – they'll bring you a complementary snack while you wait.