If you want to rub shoulders with some socialist celebrities, hang out at Hurón Azul, the social club of Uneac (Union of Cuban Writers and Artists). Replete with priceless snippets of Cuba's under-the-radar cultural life, most performances take place outside in the garden. Wednesday is Afro-Cuban rumba, Saturday is authentic boleros, and alternate Thursdays there's jazz and trova. You'll never pay more than CUC$5.