Callejón de Hamel Live Rumba

Top choice live music in Centro Habana
Julia Galiano-Rios

Aside from its funky murals and psychedelic art shops, the main reason to come to this alleyway, Havana's high temple of Afro-Cuban culture, is the frenetic rumba music that kicks off every Sunday around noon.

For aficionados, this is about as raw and hypnotic as it gets, with interlocking drum patterns and lengthy rhythmic chants powerful enough to summon the spirit of the orishas (Santería deities).

Due to a liberal sprinkling of tourists these days, some argue that the callejón (back alley) has lost much of its charm. Don't believe them. This place still rocks – and rumbas!