Crowded onto a narrow peninsula, walled Rab Town is among the northern Adriatic’s most spectacular sights. Its four instantly recognisable bell towers rise like exclamation marks from a red-roofed huddle of stone buildings. A maze of streets leads to the upper town, where there are ancient churches and dramatic lookout points. It’s quite a scene, the glinting azure waters of Rab’s pocket-sized harbour set against the island’s backbone of hills that shelter the bay from cool bura (cold northeasterly) winds. Once you’ve soaked up the town vibe, there are excursion and taxi boats waiting to whisk you off to the lovely beaches scattered around the island.

A five-minute walk north of the old town is the ageing, down-at-heel commercial centre, with shops and the bus station. Along the coast sprawl built-up suburbs, including Banjol and Barbat in the south and Palit and Kampor in the north.