The main highway heads through Kaštela's industrial fringes, leaving a less-than-positive impression, but turn off towards the water and a different Kaštela comes into view – one of historic villages clinging to rocky bays. Confusingly, the names of the seven settlements don't always match up with the castles they contain. Some have more than one castle and some no longer have any at all.

If you visit just one part of Kaštela, make it Kaštel Lukšić, home to Dvorac Vitturi, the largest and best preserved of Kaštela's castles. It now houses a museum and tourist office. The village also has a big baroque church and the most un-castle-like Kaštel Rušinac, a private house and garden enclosed by sturdy walls.