In the far reaches of the Northern Lowlands, the vast, steamy stretches of pineapple and banana plantations intermingle with rainforest, wetlands and undisturbed wildness. Once a hotbed for Contras and contrabandistas, this sector is crisscrossed by swift highways, well-trafficked by trucks laden with fresh-picked fruit and hefty cattle on their way to market. Most travelers cruise right through, heading to the Caribbean coast or Nicaragua. But those who venture off the highway and brave the bumpy roads will be rewarded. The waterways along the Nicaraguan border provide habitats for an enormous diversity of bird life. Keep your eyes peeled, and you may even spot the rare great green macaw, which is making a comeback in these parts.