The Río Badillo carves a bizarre, brain-like path through the riverbed down from the Sierra Nevada to make this a great swimming hole. Take plenty of strong insect repellent and beware the surging currents in wetter months. Take a colectivo from Carrera 6 in the center of town to Atanquez and jump out at La Mina; service runs from 11am to 2pm. To return take a moto-taxi for COP$15,000, no later than 4pm.

There's a really worthwhile women's cooperative here, run by María Martínez, whom everyone calls La Maye. All proceeds benefit local women who lost their husbands and sons in the years of conflict, and the woven bags are of very high quality. She also serves a cheap (COP$12,000) fantastic sancocho de gallina, or cockerel stew, cooked over a wooden fire and served in the yard of her simple home.