Getting There & Away
Mocoa's bus terminal is on the banks of the Río Sangoyaco in an area badly affected by the landslide.
There are several companies running comfortable large-bus services direct to Bogotá (COP$75,000, 13 hours), with afternoon and evening departures. Transipiales has regular buses to Cali (COP$69,000, 11 hours) via Popayán (COP$50,000, nine hours). All of these services will drop off in Pitalito (COP$25,000) where there are regular connections to San Agustín.
Regular minivans run to San Miguel and on to the Ecuadorean border (COP$35,000, four hours) from 4am to 6pm; in San Miguel you change to a colectivo (included in the price) that takes you to the international bridge. At the bridge, another colectivo (COP$2000) takes you to the passport control building (with Colombian and Ecuadorian customs in the same location). After you've cleared those, there are buses on the Ecuadorian side, waiting to take you to Lago Agrio (US$1 or COP$3500, 30 minutes). From Nueva Loja (Lago Agrio) on the Ecuadorean side of the border there are flights and buses to Quito. Security remains unsettled in this area so it's worth checking on the latest news before setting out.
Pickups and small buses run between Mocoa and Pasto (COP$35,000, five to six hours) from 4am to 7pm along the Trampolín de la Muerte (Trampoline of Death), a frightening single-lane mountain road with sheer drops into deep ravines. It's one of the most spectacular – and most dangerous – roads on the continent. While traffic is light (this road is favored by some daredevil cyclists), when you meet oncoming traffic you often have to navigate this treacherous track in reverse! It is safer to travel in a pickup than by bus and to complete the trip while it's light.