Cartagena and Santa Marta both have great, atmospheric restaurants to suit all budgets. Seafood lovers will love the fresh grouper, oysters, shrimp, lobster, prawn and ubiquitous ceviche. Creative cookery abounds, and if pennies are tight there's plenty of simple, delicious street food: the papa rellena – a battered and deep-fried potato ball filled with spiced ground meat – is delicious, and the juice stands will blow your mind.