The only traffic you might see on the ‘main road’ between Capurganá and Sapzurro are toucans, howler monkeys and thousands of giant ants. This long-established jungle trail has recently been made more accessible, with wooden staircases (to ascend and descend the steep ridges), proper toilet blocks, and interpretative signs highlighting the abundant bird and animal life.
Although still muddy and steep in places, the walk is a joy, culminating in a newly constructed lookout tower at the halfway point. From it you can catch a glimpse of Panama in the distance and admire the bushy canopy of the Darién jungle in all its dark, green mystery.
The trail runs for 3.6km (4km if you continue through Sapzurro to the Panama border) and is well signposted. Wear good shoes and take plenty of water – the heat and humidity make the trail seem longer than it is. At the Sapzurro end, follow the shoreline to the village center (a tiny church facing the jetty). Should the jungle heat sap your energy, a couple of local vendors sell drinks (including beer!) out of a small shack just below the lookout tower.