The fishing village of Cabo de la Vela, 180km northwest of Riohacha, was until recently little more than a remote rural community, its Wayuu inhabitants living in traditional huts made from cactus right up against the sea. But in the last couple of years Cabo has become a hotbed of ecotourism and kitesurfing and now boasts a wealth of indigenous-style accommodations. Nevertheless, the village still has electricity by generator only, and there are few fixed phone lines. Internet access is sporadic at best.
The surrounding area is a highlight of the Upper Guajira and one of the most starkly beautiful spots in Colombia. The cape for which it's named is full of rocky cliffs above and sandy beaches below, all set against a backdrop of stunning desert ochres and aquamarines.
If you're looking for peace, Cabo is best avoided around Easter, December and January.