This is Bogotá's most famous snack shop. Displays of multicolored candies beckon you into this tiny spot that's been in business since 1816. Some complain it's nothing but foreigners with their Lonely Planet guides these days, but don't buy it – there were no other gringos on our visit.

The moist tamales and chocolate completo (hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread and a biscuit; COP$6500) remain a Bogotá snack of lore.