Sōngpān’s main traveller hang-out is this laid-back cafe with wi-fi and fresh coffee (from ¥28), pizza and other Western fare, along with a range of Chinese dishes. Emma is exceedingly knowledgable and can sort out almost anything from laundry to tickets to picnic lunches for your horse trek, and leads on mountain-biking tours (from ¥220).

This is where you check-in for Emma's Guesthouse.