Sideng Jie (寺登街) is the ancient town street leading off the main road. It’s about 300m downhill to the multifrescoed Xìngjiào Sì, the only Ming dynasty Bai Buddhist temple. On the opposite side of the courtyard is the Three Terraced Pavilion, which has a prominent theatrical stage (古戏台; gǔxìtái), something of a rarity in rural Yúnnán. There is a small museum here, ask the guard at the temple for the key. The absolute highlight, however, is the Ōuyáng Courtyard, a superb example of three-in-one Bai folk architecture in which one wall protected three yards/residences. Sadly, most of it is currently closed to the public, although you can poke your head inside for a quick look.

Exit the east gate and head south along the Huì River (惠江; Huì Jiāng) for five minutes, cross the ancient Yùjīn Qiáo (玉津桥; Yùjīn Bridge), and you’re walking the same trail as the horse caravans. If you look hard enough, you’ll still be able to see hoofprints etched into the rock, or so the locals claim. Ponies can be rented for ¥40 an hour by the river, if you want to ride part of the trail yourself.

Otherwise, the main activity around town is walking. The guesthouses in town have maps that can get you started and keep you busy for days.