The city’s most famous place for sesame-seed-and-scallion-coated shēngjiān (生煎; fried dumplings) gets nil points for decor or service, but queues can stretch to the horizon as eager diners wait for scalding shēngjiān to be dished into mustard-coloured bowls. Watch out for boiling meat juices that unexpectedly jet down your shirt (and your neighbour’s). Per liǎng (两; 4 dumplings) ¥8.

Zero in on the bright-pink frontage to order at the left counter – eight dumplings and a soup (汤; tāng) should be sufficient – then join the queue on the right to pick up your order.