The city’s most famous place for sesame-seed-and-spring-onion-coated shēngjiān (生煎, fried dumplings) has queues that can stretch to the horizon as eager diners wait for their scalding orders to be dished into mustard-coloured bowls. Watch out for boiling meat juices that unexpectedly jet down your shirt. Per liǎng (两, four dumplings) it's ¥12. Order a duck blood soup, fragrant with coriander.
Zero in on the bright-pink frontage to order at the left counter – eight dumplings and a soup (汤, tāng) should be sufficient – then join the queue on the right to pick up your order.