Spicy Joint

Sichuan in French Concession

If you only go to one Sìchuān joint in town, make it this one, where the blistering heat is matched only by its scorching popularity. Dishes are inexpensive by the city’s standards; favourites include massive bowls of spicy catfish in hot chilli oil, an addictive garlic-cucumber salad, smoked-tea duck and chilli-coated lamb chops.

Be forewarned that the wait can be excruciatingly long at peak times; you’ll need a mobile number to secure a place in the queue.