The subdued evening lighting and welcoming service concocts a warm and homely atmosphere at this popular outpost of Sìchuān cuisine in Shànghǎi. The extensive photo menu is foreigner friendly and includes a sizeable vegetarian selection. The dàndàn noodles (担担面) are textbook spicy, while the pork wontons in hot oil (¥10) are spot on.
Not all dishes hit the chuāncài (川菜; Sìchuān food) nail on the head, though, and the mápó dòufu (tofu and pork crumbs in a spicy sauce; ¥26) is wide of the mark. Quench it all with a large bottle of Budweiser for ¥30 or one of the great basil drop cocktails. Service can be slow at busy times.