M exudes a timelessness and level of sophistication that eclipses the razzle-dazzle of many other upscale Shànghǎi restaurants. The menu ain't radical, but that’s the question it seems to ask you – is breaking new culinary ground really so crucial? Crispy suckling pig and tagine with saffron are, after all, simply delicious just the way they are.
The art deco dining room and 7th-floor terrace overlooking the Bund are equally gorgeous. It's also a heavenly spot for afternoon tea (¥88 to ¥138). Make reservations well in advance.