Fēngyù Shēngjiān

Dumplings in French Concession

If you thought Shànghǎi dining was all white linen tablecloths, steaming hand towels and perfectly formed waitresses in cheongsam clutching gold-embossed menus, think again. Chow down on fine xiǎolóngbāo (dumplings; ¥6), shēngjiān (生煎; fried dumplings; ¥5) and miàntiáo (noodles; ¥8) with the hard-working proletariat at Fēngyù, where plastic trays, fixed furniture and zero English rule.

Pay at the entrance and join the queue.