No one has a bad thing to say about this dapper expat favourite, and rightly so: it has never let its standards dip over the years. Meat dishes start at ¥58 for the beef and yóutiáo (dough strips), and the plentiful eel, shrimp and squid dishes cost around twice that. Other tempting fare includes the roast duck and braised pork.

Things are backed up by a four-page vegetarian menu, including the sweet-and-sour vegetarian spare ribs, which are out of this world. The setting (tucked away in an alley) is white tablecloths, cream walls and brown leatherette furniture. Service is fantastic. Reserve. It's a bit of a walk from the station; consider a taxi.