For three decades Golmud (格尔木; Gé'ěrmù) faithfully served overlanders as the last jumping-off point before Lhasa. Bedraggled backpackers hung around the city’s truck depot trying to negotiate a lift to the ‘Roof of the World.’ But since the completion of the Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway, this lonesome backwater has become even less important, as most Tibet travellers board the train elsewhere and blow right through town...
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