For three decades Golmud (格尔木; Gé'ěrmù) faithfully served overlanders as the last jumping-off point before Lhasa. Bedraggled backpackers hung around the city’s truck depot trying to negotiate a lift to the ‘Roof of the World’. But since the completion of the Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway, this lonesome backwater has become even less important, as most Tibet-bound travellers board the train elsewhere and blow right through...
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