Zhèngjiā Kèzhàn

Courtyard hotel in Píngyáo

With two locations virtually next door to each other, head to the one closest to the Listen to the Rain Pavilion for decent doubles with kàng (raised sleeping platform) beds set around a very pleasant courtyard. The cramped but fresh, sweet and clean dorms are under the eaves at the neighbouring courtyard (which also has doubles), but the tiny bathrooms are dark.

The lobby and communal area at the front has been half-converted to a bookshop (with many travel books). It sees more Chinese travellers than the other guesthouses, making it a good place to meet the locals.