Luna

Top choice Italian

in Li River

This fine rooftop restaurant experience is one of Yangshuo's best. The view of Moon Hill isn't quite as amazing as it used to be – thanks to a neighbour building a stack opposite – but it's still sublime. And the food remains top-notch: the rigatoni alla amatriciana (smoked bacon, onion and tomato) is lovely, but the whole menu's a winner. Romantic, delightful, highly appetising.

The thin-crust pizza is fantastic too, along with Italian mains such as homemade fennel sausage, and a long choice of vegetarian Chinese dishes and local specialties. It also does western and local breakfasts. The attached Yangshuo Village Inn has delectable rooms too (double rooms including breakfast from ¥150) if you need somewhere to kip after your fill. It's not easy to find, in a village called Li Village (历村, Lì Cūn), before you reach Gaotian Town.

Minibuses (¥3) run from Yangshuo to Gaotian. Before Gaotian, disembark at Li Village and it's a five-minute walk to the restaurant. A taxi one way from Yangshuo will cost around ¥40. If cycling to Moon Hill, the restaurant is a short ride away.