Jiànshuǐ (建水) is a charming town of old buildings (surrounded by a much larger modern city), an enormous Confucian temple, a cave laden with swallows, and some of the best steam-pot cooking and barbecue you’ll find in Yúnnán. The architecture is constantly being ‘facelifted’, but still retains much of its distinct character, and the locals, who are a mix of Han, Hui and Yi, are friendly.