This gorgeous teahouse (c 1933), known for its masterful cooking and Eastern art deco decor, was the haunt of opera artists, writers and painters (including the creator of one exorbitant ink-and-brush gracing a wall) who came to give recitals and discuss the national fate. The food is old-school Cantonese fare such as sweet-and-sour pork, prawn toast and a variety of dim-sum dumplings and pastries.

Today some of the waiters who served the tousled glamourati will pour your tea in the same pleasantly irreverent manner. Tea connoisseurs can order special teas served in a guk dzung (焗盅), a bowl with lid and saucer that better preserves the flavour of the infusion – perfect with the old-world setting of ceiling fans, folding screens and stained glass windows.