Cantonese in Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island

The flagship of a fine-dining brand with over a dozen branches worldwide, this two-Michelin-star eatery serves exquisite Guǎngdōng classics (including lunchtime dim sum). But Forum is most renowned for its braised abalone prepared from a recipe by the award-winning chef-owner Yeung Koon-yat. The bad news: it starts at HK$2100 (cheaper with the set menu, but you'll need six diners).

The dish only uses dried abalones for their rich and deep flavour. Dried abalones are measured by a weight-based head count, or how many there are in a catty. For example, a five-header weighs one-fifth of a catty. And the lower the head count the better, in other words, a two-header is prized more than a five-header.

The abalones are soaked in water and cleaned, then braised with fresh pork, chicken, ginger and wine for hours until the molluscs are tender but chewy, and the liquid takes on the consistency of molasses. Hong Kongers like to eat their braised abalones with knife and fork like steak. When sliced open, the best ones are supposed to be 'tong sum' – with a centre the colour of honey.