Set along a winding river about 40km north of Hǎilā’ěr, this grasslands camp has a spectacular setting, even if it is aimed at tourists. You can pass an hour or so looking around and sipping milk tea, spend the day horse riding (per hour ¥200) or hiking, or come for an evening of dinner, singing and dancing.
If you want to stay the night, the yurts are ¥100 per person. There’s no indoor plumbing, but there is a communal toilet hut. To get here, you’ll have to hire a taxi from Hǎilā’ěr (about ¥300 return) or join one of the Chinese group tours (sign up at your hotel or at the booth at the Hǎilā’ěr train station).
About 2km before the main camp there are a couple of unsigned family-run camps. Prices for food, accommodation and horse rental are about half what you pay at Jīnzhànghàn, but they are rather less organised. To skip the tourist-run camps, push further north through the grasslands towards Ēnhé and Shì Wěi.