Exquisite and delectable shāomai (steamed dim-sum dumpling) is the star of the show at this traditionally styled restaurant at the heart of the old town. Order by the steamer (笼; lóng) or half steamer. The crab shāomai are succulent and gorgeous, but not cheap (¥15 each, half steamer ¥45); there's lamb too (¥7 each, half steamer ¥26) and other tempting fillings.
There's a host of other dishes, including sweet and sour ribs (¥48). The setting is almost as delightful as the food: rectangular grey brick, carved wooden door and decorative balustrades. You'll be served a small pot of lemon-scented water. There's a picture menu.