Outside, it's a seething mass of people crowded around tables. Inside, it's even more packed as you descend into a former bomb shelter – white-tiled walls and a rock roof. This Chóngqìng institution is a unique, utilitarian dining experience, with all stratum of society in search of the signature fish dish (鲫鱼; jíyú; carp) and the simply sublime spare ribs (排骨; páigǔ).
As always, it's best to eat in a group and be prepared to wait for a table. But it never closes, so you can roll up anytime. No English menu, so point at what other diners are eating. Every taxi driver in town knows this place. The owner's son-in-law speaks English, and will help if he's around.