There’s a great buzz at this landmark eatery, established in 1747 and set in and around a small templelike courtyard. Even Mao has eaten here, in 1958, and he praised the homemade choù dòufu (臭豆腐; stinky tofu; ¥18). The xiǎo chī (小吃; snacks) menu is for those eating in the courtyard and off to one side. The xiāngcài (湘菜; Húnán cuisine) menu is for those seated in the back room.
Dishes to look out for include: Máojiā hóngshāoròu (毛家红烧肉; Mao-style braised pork; ¥98, taster portion ¥15), làjiāo chǎoròu (辣椒炒肉; pork fried with chillies; ¥28) and qīngtāng miàn (清汤面; non-spicy vegetable soup noodles; ¥18).
The Wuyi Dadao branch, near the train station, is less atmospheric, but slightly cheaper and has a photo menu.