Yáojì Chǎogān

Beijing in Drum Tower & Dongcheng North

Proper locals' joint, serving Běijīng dishes in a noisy, no-nonsense atmosphere. The house speciality is chǎogān (炒肝; pig’s liver stew; ¥10). This is also a good place to try zhá guànchang (炸灌肠; garlic-topped deep-fried crackers; ¥8) and má dòufu (麻豆腐; spicy tofu paste; ¥10).

Its steamed pork dumplings (包子; bāozi; ¥3.50 for two) are excellent, and are perfect for breakfast with a bowl of xiǎomǐ zhōu (小米粥; millet porridge; ¥2) or locals' favourite dòuzhī (豆汁; soy milk; ¥2). It also does a decent bowl of Běijīng’s best-known noodle dish, zhájiàng miàn (炸酱面; ¥12). No English menu or English sign.