Yáojì Chǎogān

Beijing in Drum Tower & Dongcheng North

One of the few places left where you can try chǎogān (¥11), Beijing's whiffy breakfast stew of pig's liver and intestines in a vinegary brown gloop. Remarkably, elderly locals still make the pilgrimage to scoff down this Qing dynasty dish, sharing tables with curious Chinese tourists (the Drum Tower is a few steps away).

For a less noxious breakfast, try the pork buns (包子; bāozi; ¥4 for two) and millet porridge (小米粥; xiǎomǐ zhōu; ¥2). You can also get tofu pulp fried in lamb oil (麻豆腐; má dòufu; ¥11) and Beijing's signature noodle dish (炸酱面; zhájiàng miàn; ¥18).