Mùchǎng Yáng Tāng

Mongolian in Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central

If mutton pushes your buttons, you'll appreciate this busy little joint serving northern Chinese fusion that straddles grassland and pasture - just like Běijīng itself. Don't miss the yóu pō yángròu zhuǎn bǐng (油泼羊肉转饼), a heap of stewed lamb chunks with leeks, coriander and chilli, which you wrap in steamed wheat pancakes. Inner Mongolian fajitas, essentially.

The mutton dumplings (yángròu shāomài; 羊肉烧麦), with their papery skins, are sensational, and served in Instagram-friendly Chinese wooden boxes. Soups, noodles and grilled lamb round out the offerings. The best seating is upstairs.