The Běijīng branch of the famed Shànghǎi restaurant, Lost Heaven specialises in the folk cuisine of Yúnnán province. While the spices have been toned down, the flavours remain subtle and light and are guaranteed to transport you to China’s balmy southwest. The location in the elegant former Legation Quarter is an added bonus, and there's an outside roof terrace for the summer.
Try the Dai-style roast pork in banana leaf (¥68), or one of the many splendid salads, such as the marinated beef salad and peppers or the Burmese tea leaves salad. But all the dishes on the extensive menu are enticing, and the service is attentive. The cocktails are another reason to stop by; the extortionately priced beer is its only downside. Book ahead in the evenings.