Lìqún Roast Duck Restaurant

Peking Duck in Temple of Heaven Park & Dongcheng South

As you walk in to this compact courtyard restaurant, you're greeted by the fine sight of rows of ducks on hooks glowing in the ovens. The delectable duck on offer is in such high demand that it’s essential to call ahead to reserve both a bird and a table (otherwise, turn up off-peak and be prepared to wait an hour).

Inside, it's a little tatty (no prizes for the toilets) and service can be chaotic, but the food more than makes up for that. Buried away in a maze of crumbling hútòng in east Qiánmén that have somehow survived demolition, look for the red-neon duck sign that points the way to the restaurant.