The charming hútòng setting in a restored courtyard makes this one of Běijīng’s more pleasant places to dine, especially in summer when the glass roof is removed (from mid-May). Specialising in the subtle flavours of Yúnnán cuisine, there’s no menu; instead, you pay ¥150 per person (drinks are extra), and enjoy a greatest hits round-up of southwest Chinese fare.
Despite being a favourite with overseas tourists, the dishes remain authentic, and usually feature the region's famous grilled goat's cheese, minty salads and aromatic fried fish. Infants eat for free, and kids for ¥75. From Gulou Dongdajie, turn north onto Xiaojingchang Hutong and look for the red lanterns down the first alley on the left.