Fusion in Puerto Varas

File under one to watch: this newcomer offers expansive lake and town views from its perch on the southeast end of the costanera and gets high marks for creativity and commitment to local ingredients. The modern-European menu is peppered with Asian flourishes (tuna smoked in eucalyptus and green tea, rib eye with wild mushrooms and bok choy) and Peruvian touches.

It's a work in progress. Our salmon three ways (sesame, truffle, eucalyptus) flanked by oyster mushrooms was revelatory, but our fish, seared with crunchy-pepper pumpkin seeds, wasn't as thrilling in reality as on paper. Still, if this one finds its footing, it's in line for best new restaurant in town.