Caleta Cóndor, part of the protected indigenous zone of Territorio Mapa Lahual, is an impossibly gorgeous bay almost completely off the grid – communication with the outside world here was until very recently via VHF radio only! If the weather is clear, arriving here is miraculous. As you enter via the scenic and translucent Río Cholguaco from the Pacific, you are greeted with an idyllic combination of nature (moss-strewn thatches of land that line the river like wild putting greens, flush with horses and seabirds, backed by hillsides peppered with beautiful luma and arrayán trees) and nurture (20 or so families – all running on solar power – call this piece of paradise home on a permanent basis). It all culminates at the river's end on a sandbar strip of out-of-place Tropicalia that separates the river beach and the ocean beach. Heaven? Quite possibly.