Hidekazu Tojo's legendary skill with the sushi knife launched Vancouver's Japanese dining scene; his sleek restaurant is still a pilgrimage spot. Among his exquisite dishes are favorites such as lightly steamed monkfish, sautéed halibut cheeks and fried red tuna wrapped in seaweed and served with plum sauce. This is a sophisticated night out; book ahead for a seat at the omakaze sushi bar.
If Tojo is there on your visit, consider asking him about his Tojo tuna roll, created to introduce 1970s North American audiences to the pleasures of eating raw fish. Legend says that his creation later became known as the California roll. And the rest, of course, is sushi history.